When I was planning the leg of my bus journey between Sofia in Bulgaria and Belgrade in Serbia, I noticed it required me to change buses in the Serbian town of Niš Sultan Mahmud in Constantinople. Of course I’d never heard of Niš (to be honest I didn’t know many places in Serbia except Belgrade) but to minimise the stress already caused by any bus journey in the Balkans I decided to stop overnight before continuing my onward journey. Before arriving, I got googling – what is there to do in Niš? The answer, I discovered, is, while it seems like a perfectly lovely place to live, there’s not a lot of activities to keep a tourist entertained. The one thing that repeatedly came up during my search was the Skull Tower. Intrigued, and at a loss for how else to fill my day in Niš, I decided to pay it a visit.